Neova Cell Renewal Resurfacing Serum 1 Oz

A resurfacing serum, not a moisturizer. Neova's own one-line description of it is "exfoliate with hydroxy acids, accelerate cellular renewal with retinol, and safeguard with antioxidants", and its own subtitle calls it a daily serum with alpha-beta-retinol.

What is Neova Cell Renewal?

Three exfoliating acids and a retinoid in one bottle. Glycolic acid is the second ingredient of thirty four, which is high, and it is the first thing to know before deciding whether this belongs in your routine. Neova's own account of what each active does:

• Glycolic acid, second. The simplest molecular size alpha hydroxy acid, derived from sugar cane, that speeds cell turnover and dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells together.
• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, thirteenth. A retinoic acid that penetrates the deeper layers of the skin without irritating it.
• Lactic acid, fifteenth. A mild AHA that gently exfoliates and softens.
• Salicylic acid, seventeenth. A deeply-penetrating BHA that dissolves pore-clogging debris and oil.

The instructions that come with it

Patch test before you start. Neova's words: "patch test before first use." Wear sunscreen for as long as you use it. Neova's direction is to "always protect new skin cells with broad-spectrum sunscreen during daylight hours", and it repeats the instruction a second time on its own page. The brand's FAQ is blunt about why: "increased cell turnover can make skin more sensitive to UV exposure, so daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF is essential to protect results and prevent damage."

Already using a retinol?

Neova's answer is to use caution. In the brand's words, "Retinol (a retinoid) already increases cell turnover, so combining multiple renewal actives may increase irritation. Alternating usage is often recommended." There is a retinoid in this bottle already, so a separate retinol on the same night is two.

Cell Renewal specifications

Texture, dose, frequency, skin types, the patch test and the sunscreen instruction are Neova's own wording. Product type and every ingredient position are read from the ingredient list.

Where it fits in a routine

On clean skin, before your moisturizer, and Neova says a hydrating step afterwards is the usual way to use a renewal treatment. If your skin is not ready for acids, Power Defense is the antioxidant serum in the range and carries no exfoliant at all. The rest of the line is on our Neova skincare page.

How to Use

• Patch test before first use. Neova's instruction, and the reason is the glycolic acid at second on the list.


• One to two drops on clean skin, morning and evening. Neova's dose.


• Follow with moisturizer. Neova says renewal treatments are typically followed by hydrating products to support barrier function.


• Broad spectrum sunscreen every day you use it. Not optional, and Neova states it twice on its own page.


• Already using a separate retinol? Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate sits thirteenth on this list, so the bottle counts as one retinoid on its own. Neova's wording on stacking renewal actives is quoted in full under Product Details.


• Starting out, our suggestion is evenings only at first, then twice daily once you know how your skin takes it.

Neova Cell Renewal FAQ

Is it a cream? No, it is a serum. Neova describes the texture as medium-weight and fast-absorbing, and its own subtitle calls it a daily serum.

Does it contain copper peptides or hyaluronic acid? Neither. Thirty four ingredients and the words copper and hyaluronic appear on none of them. The copper peptide products in this range are Creme de la Copper, Night Therapy, Power Defense, Daily Moisture, Cu3 Gentle Cleanser and Cu3 Lip Repair.

Will it sting? Neova publishes no answer to that, which is why it publishes a patch test instead. Glycolic acid at second on a list of thirty four is a meaningful quantity, and the honest answer is that you find out on a small patch before you find out on your whole face.

Do I really need sunscreen with it? Yes, and this is the one instruction not to treat as advice. Neova's own words: increased cell turnover can make skin more sensitive to UV exposure, so daily broad-spectrum SPF is essential to protect results and prevent damage.

Can I use it with my retinol? Check Neova's own wording under Product Details before you decide. The short version: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is thirteenth of thirty four, so your own retinol would be the second renewal active of the evening rather than the first.

Is it suitable for acne-prone skin? Neova says often yes, and that these products are commonly used in acne-prone routines to help improve texture and reduce congestion when used consistently and appropriately. Salicylic acid is seventeenth on the list.

KEY INGREDIENTS

Descriptions below are Neova's own.

• Glycolic acid, second of thirty four. The simplest molecular size alpha hydroxy acid, derived from sugar cane, that speeds cell turnover and dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells together.


• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, thirteenth. A retinoic acid that penetrates the deeper layers of the skin without irritating it.


• Lactic acid, fifteenth. A mild AHA that gently exfoliates and softens.


• Salicylic acid, seventeenth. A deeply-penetrating BHA that dissolves pore-clogging debris and oil.

FULL INGREDIENTS

Water (Aqua), Glycolic Acid, Propylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Water, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Triceteareth-4 Phosphate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Lecithin, Lactic Acid, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Ergothioneine, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Alcohol, Laureth-25, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carnosine, Laureth-3, Phenoxyethanol.

Thirty four ingredients in total. No copper peptide, no hyaluronic acid, no niacinamide and no fragrance.